Batanes: Untainted Treasure

I've always heard about the beauty of Batanes: how it looks like Scotland moors or New Zealand landscapes. But I've also heard of the horrors of travelling to this far north islands of the Philippines; how it's typhoon stricken, flights getting cancelled and as a result preparing to get stuck for a week when you do visit the place.

My friend Glynn invited me in November 2007 to go, I said yes on the condition that we go during Holy Week just to make sure that the trip doesn't conflict with any work schedule. We booked our flights and accommodations in December and went on March 19 -24, 2008 for five full enthralling days in Batanes.

This is what I discovered: Batanes is trully an untainted treasure of the Philippines.

1. Majestic landscapes and seascapes surround the islands of Batanes.

Waking up to such beautiful scenery reminds me how small I am compared to the big world that God has created. And that everything He has created is truly beautiful and good. I sometimes wondered how the Ivatans felt about seeing such wonders everyday. Has it become common fare to them like eating kamote or is it something they continue to thank for everyday? Ah, my question is answered in the way they've preserved their surroundings for as long as Magellan has landed on the Philippines in 1521. To this day, only Ivatans are allowed to own property on the islands. I've heard that outsiders have been wanting to purchase land but to no avail. Thanks too to Mother Nature's own care of the place that the awe-inspiring landscapes remain.

2. Ivatans have a refreshingly Preserved Way of Living

The somewhat isolation of the island has likewise become a blessing to the continuity of a simple lifestyle. Farming and fishing remain to be a way of life. Cogon planted as windbreakers to protect their crops from the sometimes harsh winds is a practice handed down thru centuries. Camote remains to be the staple food. Flying fish and dolphin fish are still part of their regular daily meal. Also, people generally walk to nearby towns. As Sr. Nenita and Sr. Mary Philippe (Dominican nuns we got to chat with at the Basco Church) pointed out to us, most Ivatans are fit. Ang matataba lang eh yung mga dayo. And this is attributed to their working on the farm or walking to places. Oh but don't be mistaken, they are not completely remiss of technology as they do have cable, internet and cell sites too.

3. Beautiful, Trusting People

One thing I noticed about the Ivatans is that they're physically beautiful people. But beyond that where in the Philippines can you find a shop that does not have a storekeeper at all? Only in Batanes! The Honesty Coffeeshop is pretty much like any small sari-sari store or eatery except that no one's there to tend to your purchases. Every product for sale is labeled with a price tag. You just take what you need, log it in the notebook and leave your payment. You may also get the change from the money that is laying on the counter with the log book. If you need extra change, you may go to the next door to ask for change but if no one answers, you are thanked for paying the extra amount and given wishes "may your tribe increase." Of course, you are likewise reminded, "honesty is the best policy" and that "God is the store's security guard."

4. Great Food

It was fish and kamote galore but we enjoyed every bite immensely. Fish lumpia is easily my favorite. And of course the ever elusive Coconut Crab or locally known as Tatus. Not yet endangered but the locals are controlling the consumption of these ultra yummy crabs. You definitely have to pre-order it. You are not assured that there will be crabs available since it will depend if they find those which are within the size limitations (at least one foot in length, if I remember right.

View some of the pics here.

If you want to plan a trip, here are a few details that might help:

Airfare

c/o Asian Spirit - P10-12k
http://www.asianspirit.com/
Flight sched: MWF
Manila to Basco - 5.30 - 6.45am
Basco to Manila - 7.15 to 8.30am

Accommodations

Batanes Resort - 0917 8833279 / 0920 849 2496
The room rates: Fan room - P550 (single), P672 (double), P764 (triple) Aircon room - P800 (single), P900 (double), P1000 (triple)
Ask for Itbayat (we stayed in this room) and Sabtang cottages because these have the best view of the place.

You can check out other resorts in this link.

Meals

Resort Breakfast - P100 (choice of daing, longganisa, arozcaldo, tocino)
Lunch/Dinner - P150-250 depending on what you order.

Suggest you advise the hotel in advance if you'll be eating coz it took them about one hour to prepare our food. Same thing with eating at other places to make sure your food is ready when you arrive.

Must try is the Coconut Crab (super yummy pero cholesterol all you can. P750/kilo. This is something you also order in advance since it may not be readily available. We had to order 2 days before. You see, they are controlling the supply and demand as it takes years to grow the crabs. They must meet a certain size before allowed to order for cooking.

Some Restaurants:
Shanedel's - 0920-4470737 - we got to eat crabs here, together with flying fish, fish lumpia, camote (for dessert). P340/head for a group of six
St. Dominic's canteen - in front of police station - cheap P60 for rice, adobo and soft drink
Casa Napoli (Abad Street) - 0920-2842019 - we wanted to try this place but it was closed during our holy week stay
Doque Grill Xaus (highway) - served the usual fare e.g. adobo, kaldereta etc so didn't try this place anymore but if you miss that kind of food, then maybe this is the place to go

Tours

Our contact was Gemma. She used to be the exclusive agent for Batanes resort. She's from Batanes but now based in Manila. Mobile: 0919-6051109, Landline: 799-2366, 427-0234. You can see the itinerary on her website.

Must see: South of Batan, Sabtang and Rolling Hills/Lighthouses/Windmills/Fundacion Abad